Fancy Yarn Innovation
Fancy yarns have been essential components of modern fashion and have been gaining more reputation in the clothing sector, especially denim, and in furnishing and draperies.
Demand for intricate fabrics with distinguishing characteristics is growing, winning larger shares of the textile market.
Marzoli has been the 1st manufacturer to introduce a fully integrated fancy device on its spinning frames since 1999.
Marzoli and some of its customers, who are world-wide leaders in the production of denim fabrics, have arrived to the creation of a highly performing system that fully meets markets needs.
Fancy Yarn Developments for producing Slubbing effects:
- Slub Yarn
- Multi-Count
- Multi-Twist
- Reverse Slub
The various amalgamations amid these 4 methods can produce infinite yarn and fabric designs.
In order to produce slub yarns, we begin with a regular yarn defined as base. This yarn will have defined count and twist. The slubbing effects is obtained by a controlled variation on the drafting process. With the Marzoli system to create a slub is as simple as setting its length in millimeters, its thickness (multiplier) as a percentage of the base yarn and the pause (distance between one slub to the next) in millimeters. The pause coincides with the base yarn, which is indicated by the multiplier equal to -0-. Usually slubs have lengths between 30 to 100 mm, but in some cases slubs are even shorter to produce an effect called “malfile”, i.e. small and frequent slubs that create an effect of natural irregularity. Thanks to the last generatiion electronics, high efficient motors and special acceleration ramps lower than 0.1 seconds, Marzoli’s slubbing device is capable of producing slubs shorter than 20 mm without compromising yarn quality and strength.
Multi-count yarn has not a constant count and twist, but it’s composed by sections of different yarn counts. Four each count a different desired twist is applied, based on a selected constant “a”. The multi-count is therefore obtained through a draft variation to modify the count and the first cylinder speed to modify the twist.
Multi-twist yarns have no count and drafting variation, but only a twist variation. The twist differential changes the yarn diameter and its response to dyeing, which creates interesting light and dark areas in the yarn and fabric.
As the slub, the reverse slub is obtained with a drafting variation that, in this case, is negative and reduces the yarn thickness.
